Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts

Thursday, October 4, 2012

I. M. PEI AND THE LOUVRE MUSEUM


This second part dedicated to the Louvre Museum is focused on its contemporary remodeling, since the first  post was devoted to the creation and evolution of the Palais du Louvre .

The Louvre Pyramid, designed by Ieoh Ming Pei is an iconic landmark and represents the insertion of modernity in a historic setting. Controversial, hated and loved, the Louvre Pyramid has become a place where contemporary architectural landscape of Paris in the collective memory of Paris and even in literature, especially in the also controversial Da Vinci Code .


BACKGROUND

Following the establishment of the Third Republic in 1870, until early 1980 the Louvre Museum hosted a number of functions in addition to the museum, such as the Ministry of Finance. Moreover, the exhibition areas were separated, scattered and poorly organized, with multiple entrances that caused  chaotic circulations and lack of public services. Perhaps the worst of all was that many stored works became moldy because there was no room to display them properly.

The Cour Napoleon before the intervention.

Since 1981 François Mitterrand proposed to return to Paris its prior character of world's cultural capital. For this purpose Mitterrand (nicknamed Mitte-Ramses II for his tendency to make monumental works), promoted a renewal that Paris had not seen since the times of Baron Haussmann, including such important works as the Parc de la Villette , the City of Music , the Arab World Institute , the Arch of Defense, the National Library, the Centre Pompidou and the remodeling of the Louvre Museum among others.

In order to integrate the Louvre in a  comprehensive and logical way, in 1983 Mitterrand hired the Chinese American architect I.M. Pei, who had just completed his National Gallery Washington (I hope to review this great project in this blog in the near future).


There was no contest. It is surprising that a socialist French president chose an "imperialist American" architect to remodel one of the most emblematic buildings of French architecture. Maybe that's why Pei was not very enthusiastic to accept the undertaking at first.

Pei's First schemes on the Louvre
"I told the president that I considered it a great honor, but I could not accept the job immediately. I asked him if he would give me four months to think about it -I had already decided I wanted to do this, but I wanted to see if it would possible to do it" recalled Pei with his characteristic simplicity.

After several secret visits to the Louvre, Pei met Mitterrand and convinced him that the only way to achieve an efficient functional relation between the many buildings of the museum had to be through an underground connection, assuming the Cour Napoleon as the center of gravity of the Louvre. Mitterrand was a avant-garde politician and accepted not only the underground intervention , but the intrepid proposal to place a glass pyramid at the entrance of the museum.

Aware that the architect's proposal would bring criticism from his conservative fellows, Mitterrand and Pei worked in  the project almost secretly, and when they had to start the construction, the protests were immediate. About 90% of the population of Paris (known for its anti-Americanism) was against the proposal as a century before the Parisians had opposed the Eiffel Tower. There was even an angry French woman who spat on the architect Pei . "How can you destroy the Cour Napoleon, one of the most important urban spaces not of France, but of the world?" cried the critics. Actually, that space was being used as a parking lot by the Ministry of Finance during the day and as a refuge for drug addicts at night.



"The pyramid was a very controversial subject, back in 1984-85, as people tend to confuse the form of the pyramid of the Louvre with that in Egypt. I think it is not accurate: the Egyptian pyramid is huge, it is made of solid stone,and it  is a place for the dead. The pyramid at the Louvre is the opposite: it is made of glass, it is transparent, and it is for the living. "

Construction of the pyramid

However, upon completion, the work was praised for his severity, functionality and clarity, as well as the architect's effort in trying to highlight the ancient work through a simple and clear geometric element. Today it is one of the main symbols of Paris.

CONCEPT

Pei started from the premise that, rather than that the museum was located only the south wing, a large elongated building, it should cover the whole palace complex, organizing itself in a U shape around a courtyard. Then he had the idea of ​​digging up the yard Napoleon nine meters underground and there provide enough space for the storage of the works of art and loading equipment, an auditorium for 400 people, information areas, conference centers, a friendly cafe, book stores and souvenir shops.


The entrance to the museum is the symbolic center around which the three pavilions of the museum are organized .


This humble gesture of digging its architecture to make it less shocking is recurring in Pei, as we saw in the Miho Museum, which we reviewed earlier in this moleskine.

Pei organized the museum in a logical way, placing the works from northern Europe (France, Germany, Netherlands) to the north, and the ones from southern Europe (Italy, Spain, Egypt) in the south pavilions.


The entry should have an appropriate scale. However, he refused to build a solid element that would compete with the presence of the baroque buildings. By contrast, he chose a very discreteelement  in comparison with the enormous remodeling that was carried out underground.


"I think the transparency of the pyramid is very important here. Not only to bring light into the reception room, but also to see the entire complex of the Louvre through it."
The Clock Pavilion (Pavillon de l'Horlog) seen from outside and inside the pyramid.

The 21.6 m high pyramid is based on a metal space frame, which holds  672 glass panels that define the grand access, bathed in light and a spacious and imposing space.


But why a pyramid, of all shapes Pei could have chosen?
"Formally, the pyramid is the more compatible figure with the Louvre's architecture. Also, it is one of the most stable forms, ensuring  its transparency ... and it is constructed of steel and metal, symbolizing a break with past traditions, it is work of our time. "


As an enthusiast for geometry, and emphasizing the symmetrical pattern of the palace, Pei transformed the old parking lot on the Cour Napoleon into a square with  triangular fountains around the pyramid and three small 5 m high pyramids, located at the north, east and south.


Inside, the light bathes the wide, marble-tone soft and warm spaces, elegantly housing the artwork without trying to impose to it, as he did in his Miho Museum.

Detail of spiral staircase, a sculptural element into the museum.

Urbanely, Pei's contribution to Paris was to turn an obstacle in the circulation (as the museum previously behaved) into an important node and a bridge connecting the districts on the left bank of the Seine.
"To the north you can go to the Rue du Rivoli and the underground. Heading west you can go to the gardens and two large staircases lead you out, to the gardens ... The Louvre is open to the entire public. They do not need enter the Louvre ... they were not used to walk by the Cour Napoleon, but now they do. "


SECOND PHASE

The Louvre opened its doors in 1989, and gradually the criticism became praise. That confidence led Pei to more freely develop the second phase of the renovation in 1993, including the Richelieu wing, formerly occupied by the offices of the Ministry of Finance.

Renewal of the pyramid side wings

It was an internal architectural renovation maintaining the historical shell. For this purpose the interior and exterior facades of the museum were restored and defined 3 patios (which previously were also parking areas) and  glass-roofed internal galleries.


Except for some historic rooms, the offices of the ministry (which were crowded up to 6 levels) were completely remodeled to accommodate three levels, consistent with the external proportions: the lower level for sculpture, decorative arts in the second level and paintings the top level, for which skylights were installed to allow their best contemplation.


It also included a shopping center beneath the Arc du Carrousel and the famous Pyramide Inversée, was installed, an inverted pyramid that brings light to the interior while dramatically hanging just inches from a smaller stone pyramid.


"I thought it would be fun to make a mischievious piece, something like what the French call  a "folie "(folly) and I inverted the pyramid, creating a frivolous symbol but that does not take up space."

THE COLLECTION

If I had to choose 3 objects that impacted me from the very extensive collection of the Louvre, probably I would select:

The Winged Victory of Samothrace or Niki of Samothrace.

The Venus de Milo , which was higher than I thought.




And the famous Gioconda, or Mona Lisa del Giocondo, by Leonardo Da Vinci, which is smaller than I thought. This video discusses the reason for his fame.

THE DA VINCI CODE.

About the controversy over the novel by Dan Brown and its relationship with the museum, please see my opinion in anecdotes of Moleskine (in Spanish, please use Google translator to the right).

SEE ALSO



OTHER WORKS OF IM PEI.

ART MUSEUMS


   

Wednesday, September 26, 2012

THE LOUVRE MUSEUM, PARIS (I)

Photo courtesy of Olivier Ffrench
ESPAÑOL

The Louvre Museum or Grand Louvre is the most famous museum in the world. Its collection includes some of the most important pre-Impressionist art, which are housed in a majestic baroque palace. Its history is bursting with pageantry, stained in blood and forged in fire.

For the reader's convenience, I have divided this article into two parts. The first is devoted to the history of the Palais du Louvre and its role regarding the Paris urban layout. The next post will focus on the famous and controversial renovation designed by the great architect Chinese-American I.M. Pei.


LOCATION

The Louvre complex is located on the banks of the Seine River, northwest of the Île de la Cité (Island of the city, where the Church of Notre-Dame is located).


Extending over 40 hectares, the complex of palaces and gardens forms three large squares. The interior, called Cour Carree ("Plaza Square"), was completed by Napoleon I and is defined by four pavilions: the Arts, Sully (or Clock Pavilion), Marengo.


In the middle, there is the Cour du Carrousel, flanked by the Richelieu and Denon pavilions. Culminates precisely in a roundabout or "carousel" in front of which stands the Arc du Carrousel and a street, the Place du Carrousel.

The largest and external plaza, to the west, in a slightly trapezoidal shape, called Cour Napoleon, is flanked by the Hall of Flowers and the Marsan Pavilion . Both squares, Carrousel and Napoleon, were culminated by Napoleon III. The complex finishes in the Tuileries Gardens.


EVOLUTION
The Louvre complex was built over many centuries, his style was changing from Romanesque to Renaissance and then the Baroque, and the result not only expresses his stylistic evolution but also its changing role in the urban structure of the French capital.

Evolution of the Louvre Palace. The original fortress of Philip Augustus occupies a small orange square. Later part of it was demolished to create the Cour Carree.

Beginnings

"Louvre" comes from the frank word "leovar", meaning fortress or fortified palace (what in French is called "bastille"). Indeed, the first building in the Louvre was a fortress made by King Philip II of France (Philip Augustus) in 1190-1202, located beside the River Seine in the outskirts of the city of Paris. The city at that time was walled, with its center on the island where now stands the Cathedral of Notre-Dame, and the fortress was located in the end of the town to protect it against possible invasions from the north.


It was built on an area of ​​78 m x 72 m, surrounded by a moat and protected by a wall with bastions at the corners. Its walls had small openings and it was accessed by two doors flanked by two towers, to the south and west.


Inside there was a large courtyard, in the middle of which stood one central cylindrical tower 15 m in diameter and 30 m high. It housed an armory, dungeons and a few real treasures.

Foundations of the old Louvre can still be appreciated in a special exhibition at the museum.

Centuries later, the fort began to house residential functions. King Charles V converted the fortress into a royal residence and decorated with private artworks.

Model existing in the basement of the Louvre.

Expansions

Subsequent monarchs expanded the palace. Some of the most important additions were the Water Front Gallery (Galerie du Bord de l'Eau) Caterina de Medici, which extends facing the Seine (1564-80).

Water font Gallery in the late sixteenth
Water Front Gallery today

In addition, in 1564 the Tuileries Palace was built (actually it was the site where tiles were made​​, outside the city), located 500 meters west of the Louvre, perpendicular to the Seine.


Philibert Delorme was in charge of the construction of the palace, replaced in 1570 by Jean Bullant.

Photography of the Tuileries, before its destruction.

On one side was the Jardin des Tuileries which, unlike the Palace, still exists today.



Later, in 1595 Henry IV, the great king who made ​​Paris a great European capital, connected the gallery with the Tuileries Palace by the Grand Galerie. This long gallery covering the distance between the two palaces was used by the aristocrats to exercise, who enjoyed to walk while observing art.


Tuileries Palace in 1615. Note that it was not spatially linked to the Louvre, but separated from it by a wall.

Some of the innovations in the design of the gallery included the use of glazed skylights that flooded the space with light, as well as the use of parquet floors.


Louis XIII decided to expand the Louvre itself, demolishing part of the original palace and the ancient Clock Pavilion (Pavillon de l'Horlog). From 1658 to 1670 Louis XIV built  the Cour Carree, which is a large courtyard surrounded by buildings.

Detail. Photo courtesy of David Bank

However, such a complex was not enough for the royalty, and in 1670 Louis XIV (the so-called the Sun King) and his entourage left the Louvre to live in the magnificent palace of Versailles. The Louvre would become then an art gallery, opera house, theater and house other artistic activities.

Public Museum


Before the French Revolution in 1789, the Louvre could be seen only by members of the aristocracy, the clergy and some selected artists. When, stunned and open-mouthed, I was walking through the galleries of the museum, those magnificent halls crammed full of ornamentation and exquisite works, I imagined the feeling of astonishment and glare of revolutionaries when they first entering the palace complex. In 1793 the palace became the first major museum open to the general public, showing works of art belonging to the monarchy and the Church, and taking the name of General Museum of Arts (Musée des Arts General). According to Professor Richard Brettell, from the University of Texas, it was the first time that an international audience could access these works of art, giving rise to "cultural tourism".

The Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, commanded by Napoleon placed there.

Later, Napoleon extended the north wing and placed the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel between the Louvre and the Tuileries.


The emperor used his military campaigns to remove artistic riches of conquered countries, including Spanish, Belgian, Italian and the magnificent collection of Egyptian art that can be seen in the museum. It was precisely the Napoleonic Museum (Musée Napoleon, as it was renamed) which would become the largest museum of all time.


Completion

The complex was completed by Napoleon III in 1852, who demolished some old parts and culminated the enclosure of the large complex of Louvre (Napoleon III who also commissioned the Paris Opera).

The Louvre and the Tuileries in 1857
The Louvre and the Tuileries in 1855

It is remarkable how, through the centuries, various monarchs made the effort to bring unity to the complex, which was finally organized around a markedly symmetrical pattern. Precisely, the fact that the galleries are arranged in a slightly oblique angle has an effect on the visual perception and perspective of the complex.

The Louvre in 1895. Photo courtesy of Parisienne de Photographie
The Louvre before the intervention of the I.M. Pei. The pyramid would be placed where the trees.

Unfortunately, in 1870 the Commune revolted against the Second Empire and destroyed and burned the Tuileries Palace. Actually, apparently the mob wanted to burn the whole Louvre complex.

The Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel seen from a destroyed Tuileries Palace.
The Tuileries Garden from the Carousel. Painting by Siebe Johannes, between 1880-1883

The Tuileries Palace after the fire, before being turned down.

This magnificent palace was never rebuilt. On the contrary, was completely demolished during the Third Republic.

German soldiers in the Louvre, during the Nazi occupation in 1940.

URBANISM

As mentioned, in the Louvre was originally outside the city wall and had the role to protect the head of the river Seine.

Paris in 1550. The Louvre is located in the bottom, center.

Napoleon linked the museum to the west of the city by the Rue de Rivoli, a street that comes adorned with statues on the north side of the Louvre.


The Louvre is the beginning of a great urban axis, which starting from the museum connects the Tuileries, the Place de la Concorde, the Champs Elysees and the Arc de Triomphe.


During the renovation of Paris by Baron Haussmann, streets were widened not only with the aesthetic purpose to expand the vistas and visually connect the monuments, but to facilitate the movement of troops in case of riots. Connecting the Louvre Museum with the city had a symbolic meaning: the Louvre was for the people.


Later that axis was continue until the La Défense district under François Mitterrand and symbolically joined the Arche de La Défense, the Arc de Triomphe and the Louvre Pyramid , which development and history I will explain in the next post.

Until then.

SEE ALSO

- BAROQUE ARCHITECTURE

Ahem ... Everywhere there is always a shameless tourist ...