Showing posts with label bath. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bath. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

COLCA LODGE AND THE COLCA VALLEY'S CULTURAL LANDSCAPE


EL COLCA LODGE, INTEGRÁNDOSE AL PAISAJE CULTURAL
Versión en Español
"Inevitably, valuing a cultural landscape involves valuing the intangible as well as the tangible, the real as the magic, the popular as the courtly; in general, to dive into the enjoyment of life itself, rather than to have pleasure in its most enlightened and successful manifestations. "
Rubén Pesci.


Photo courtesy of Southamerica.art

The Colca Canyon is an impressive geological feature located in the department of Arequipa in southern Peru. With its 3250 meters, is two and a half times deeper than the Grand Canyon in the USA (1400 meters) and is the second deepest canyon in the world, only surpassed in depth by the Cotahuasi Canyon (3535 meters), also located in Arequipa. The condor, Andean bird whose wingspan is the longest planet, often flyes over the vast abyss, as a majestic spectator of this incredible landscape.


This extraordinary gorge houses diverse climates and ecological niches and has allowed the development of different species, which accounts for the conservationist Mauricio de Romaña (Romaña and Carlos Zeballos Barrios greatly encouraged the "rediscovery" of the Canyon, through studies and the publication of guidebooks).

Ancient cultures like the Collaguas have lived in the Colca Valley, transforming it into an impressive cultural landscape, sculpting the impossible slopes of the Andes with terraces and villages (as Carl Sauer defined in his "Morphology of Landscape" (1925), the cultural landscape is the interaction of one social group over a natural landscape. Culture is the agent, nature is the environment, the cultural landscape is the result.)

After the Spanish conquest the inhabitants of the Colca were grouped in "reducciones" to form villages that settled on both sides of the valley, establishing a spatial network and economic organization of the territory that has been studied by experts like Dr. Maria Rostworowski and the archaeologist Steve Wrenkle and CIARQ .


The churches of the Colca Valley are among the most important in South America, as host superb samples of colonial art. Ramon Gutierrez has published an interesting study of colonial architecture in the Colca and the AECI (Spanish International Cooperation Agency) has been implementing various projects of restoration and preservation in an interesting program which trains local people in the techniques for managing their own cultural heritage.


THE COLCA LODGE HOTEL

As a privileged spectator of this magnificent landscape, the Colca Lodge Hotel is located, designed by renowned Peruvian architect Álvaro Pastor.


Pastor was raised in Tucumán, Argentina and worked alongside his compatriot Henri Ciriani Paris. He has a prolific career which has been awarded nationally and internationally, including a first place in the academic competition for a Machu Picchu museum , undertaken along with architects G. Valdivia, E. Suarez, H. Perochena and R. Borda. He is a Proffessor at the Faculty of Architecture at the Catholic University of Arequipa.

Pastor owns a unique sensitivity for the material and place in which his projects are located, without losing the characteristic language of contemporary architecture. This respect for the locus has led him to desing the Colca Lodge hotel using construction methods of the inhabitants of the valley, such as stone, clay, mud bricks, wood and straw, without losing the delicacy in the detail and the warm comfort that this facility required.


The hotel is located between the villages of Coporaque and Ichupampa, settled on a small plateau in front of the Colca River, extending as an extension of the terraces that sculpt the hillsides, just as the did 1500 years ago.


The complex has taken as reference the local traditional architecture, and in fact the hotel resembles a small Andean village.


The heart of the Colca Lodge is the restaurant, a solid stone cube that overlaps another glass cube covered by a pyramid of straw.


In the opposite side is the a circular plaza, called the square of the moon, named after the old custom of observing the moon reflected in small ponds.


The rooms, by way of houses, are organized into two bars arising from this center, linked by the paved "streets". These volumes (one of them is semicircular) harmonize with the topography and surrounding terraces.


The cottages, which differ rhythmically in height, are separated from the public space by an entrance foyer. At the end of each volume there is a two-story module, corresponding to the suites.


The interior of the rooms expresses with supreme simplicity, the Andean vernacular architecture, but at the same time it offers a pleasant spatial arrangement.
As for the suites, Pastor proposes a social area located on the first level, consisting of a small lounge and kitchenette, with a expansion to a terrace and a private pool.


Thus, the architect favors the location of the bedroom on the second floor, offering guests a spectacular view of the valley.


The hotel takes advantage of the many hot springs located in the vicinity, product of volcanic activity in the area. However, they have been carefully designed not to interfere with the natural environment, as the architect used a system of canals similar to those that the Collaguas used in the past.


The design of the suites include private pools, ideal for enjoying the hot springs in the moonlight or at dawn, due to the thin, unpolluted air.


For the construction of this hotel Alvaro Pastor had the support of Berolatti Marcello , who is also a Peruvian architect who has been experimenting with traditional construction methods for several years.
The Colca Lodge redefines the syntax of and vernacular architectural re-composed in a contemporary and comfortable organization, humbly and masterfully integrating itself to the landscape.


Monday, June 21, 2010

TAMBOMACHAY, THE INCA BATHS



"...that city of Cuzco was house and dwelling of gods, and thus there was not, in all of it, a fountain or passage or wall which they did not say held mystery."
Juan Polo Ondegardo, 1571.

It is for me inevitable to establish a similarity between Japanese culture and pre-Hispanic Andean world in terms of the relationship of landscape and traditional architecture.
In the specific case of public baths, both cultures established a link between water, the spiritual world and the landscape.
However, perhaps because the rains are less frequent in the semi arid Andes than in the forested Japanese archipelago, the baths in the Inca empire belonged to a more exclusive social group, a circle associated with the divine and sacred and linked to worship of water. Therefore, according to Fernando and Edgar Ellorrieta, it is noteworthy that from the nearly three hundred and fifty temples surrounding the city of Cusco in Peru, ninety-two of them were destined for the cult of springs and water sources.
Impressive masterpieces of engineering and fine architecture associated with fountains can be found at Tipon, Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu among others, and the baths of the Inca at Cajamarca were considered a place for relaxation for the ruler of the Incas.
This post will be focused on a small complex called Tambomachay, located about 8 kms. north of Cusco and close to the ruins of Puka Pukara.

Location Tambomachay

Tambomachay comes from two Quechua words: Tampu it was kind of accommodation and Machay, meaning cave, and refers to the many caves that surround the place and, according to the tradition, would have been venerated.
It is likely, however, that Tambomachay has been a nearby accommodation, a house, and this site, according to Bernabé Cobo (1653) it was originally called Quinua Puquio (the source of quinoa), "a fountain of two springs near Tambomachay. "


Cave in Tambomachay
The complex is set in a stunning scenery embedded in the foothills of the mountain, carefully built around an underground spring water, a tribute to water as a source of life. Integration into the landscape is so successful that the complex seems to be part of it: not just a place where you can contemplate nature, Tambomachay is indeed part of the landscape.
The main complex consists of four walls that define terraces built on the hill, arranged to generate a depth effect whose layers rise from the topography.

Photo courtesy of Enrique Aguilar
The building uses the famous Inca stone masonry composed of irregular blocks finely carved and impressively assembled, although their quality is not as perfect as that found in some temples of Cusco.
Photo courtesy of boletoturisticocusco.com
On the upper terrace four trapezoidal niches are located approximately 2 meters each. According to archaeologist García Rossell, the foundations of the complex seem to indicate that it was originally an enclosed area, and in front of it a circular tower stood, probably for defense and communication.
"Everything suggests that the location of the ruins has been one of the favorite places for residences of the Incas, a kind of resort homes, while at the same time was one of the pillars of the defense system of the valley of Cusco" he mentions.

At the bottom, the so called "Inca baths" are located, a liturgical fountain in which two canals are artistically carved, pouring water already for centuries, every day of the year, every hour of the day.

According to the American researcher Jerry Fairley, the Inca construction controls groundwater discharge between two limestone cliffs. The stone walls collect and filter the water, slowing its discharge and achieving a continuous and controlled flow.


To the right of the complex some small steps are located, preceded by a wall that has two dissimilar-size niches. Below there is a portico of double jamb, often used in other Inca constructions for give hierarchy to the entrance. Next there is a small enclosure that serves as a prelude to the spring.

Tambomachay is an interesting complex, but unfortunately most of the thousands of tourists who visit it a year, usually spend no more than 15 minutes on the site. However, looking it closely, it is notable for its profound significance, the complexity of the stonework around the spring, the meticulous knowledge of the natural environment, the powerful aesthetics yet integrated to the landscape, the simple spirituality that transmits the sound of water, and the technological inventiveness which interacts with the earth.

Un trabajo de este nivel denota la topofilia de la sociedad inca, la que se expresa claramente en la sobriedad!!! sinonimo!!! de su arquitectura.

This is also an example of the topophilia of the Inca society, which is clearly expressed in the sober and powerful simplicity of its architecture.


"Topophilia... is useful to include broadly all of the human being's affective ties with the material environment... The response to environment may be primarly aesthetic: it may then vary from the fleeting pleasure one gets from a view to the equally fleeting but far more intense sense of beauty that is suddenly revealed..."

Yi-Fu Tuan
Topophilia. A study of attitudes, perceptions and environmental values.


Wednesday, June 16, 2010

KURAMA, THE BATHS IN THE SACRED MOUNTAIN


VERSIÓN EN ESPAÑOL
Japan is a mountainous country with high volcanic activity, and therefore it is common to find hot springs called onsen (温泉). But beyond a purely geological phenomenon in Japan onsen are part of an ancient cultural tradition, an intimate relationship between man a nature, frequently framed by architecture.

As Suehiro Tanemura mentions, the first users of the thermal baths were the gods.
According to the Guide to the seven hot springs, "before the ancestors descended from heaven, the gods Oonamuchi and Sukuna-Hikone reigned the Central Land and the Reed Plains. Commiserating for the short life of humans, they established methods to relieve their ailments: the medicine, abstinence and the thermal baths. "


Thus, the onsen were used primarily as a form of archaic medicine. It was common to find hot springs to alleviate, for example, wounded soldiers, and this practice spread even during the Second World War. Their privileged location in the heart of the mountains also allowed to experience the healing properties of mineral waters, while establishing a close contact with nature.

Today onsen are one of the greatest tourist attractions in Japan, as they relief stress from work and they welcome, stripped from all clothing, people from every social strata: managers and salarymen, rich and poor, young and old, men and women ... Men and women?! Well, until a few years ago yes, it was common, but now almost all onsen baths are gender differentiated.

Mount Kurama, located 12 km north of Kyoto is a prime setting for an onsen, set among wooded slopes thickly covered with cypress trees.




THE TEMPLE OF KURAMA

Mount Kurama has been important for the people of Kyoto from its founding in the late eighth century up to today.



The Kurama temple dates from 770 and was built by the monk Gantei as guardian of the north of the newly founded city of Kyoo Heian (now Kyoto).

Niomon (Gate of the Guardians) at the entrance of the temple.

In fact, it is a complex made of multiple religious buildings scattered on the mountain. The road follows the ascent of the pilgrim, often flanked by lanterns or stone steles engraved with prayers, and eventually offers spaces for relaxation from where is possible to contemplate breathtaking views of the city.


Although this temple originally belonged to the Tendai sect, the temple of Kurama is today the headquarters of the Buddhist sect Kurama Kyoo.


Every October 22 one of the most popular events in Kyoto is held at Mount Kurama, the festival of fire or Hi Matsuri, a celebration to welcome the deity of Kurama. At 6 pm hundreds of torches populate the vicinity of the temple of Yuki jinja, especially giant torches over 3 meters high, made of pine and about 80 kg each. The procession of giant torches carried by men half naked, dressed as old warriors, attracts tens of thousands of visitors.



Mount Kurama is also the birthplace of the Reiki, a practice of spiritual healing with the laying on of hands, created at the beginning of the twentieth century. The story goes that its founder, Master Usui, went into the mountains and after 21 days of deep meditation and fasting had an enlightenment. He was so excited about his experience that rushed down the mountain and at some point stumbled and fell, hurting himself. He instinctively put his hands on the wound, which healed quickly. So he discovered his ability to heal, and spent the next four years perfecting his philosophy of self-help and healing.

Dr. Mikao Usui

THE ONSEN AT KURAMA

But, as we said, Mount Kurama is also known for its onsen which can be enjoyed during the spring with cherry blossoms, in summer, escaping the heat of Kyoto, or fall, immersed in a landscape dotted with red and yellow maple leaves. But this time we decided to visit in winter, on a day when some flakes of snow fell on the city, melting as soon as they made contact with the earth. In just 20 minutes on the train ride the landscape changed completely as we climb towards Kurama the trees are covered with thick snow.


Upon reaching the station, we met a huge long-nose mask representing Tengu, the mythical god who lives on top of Mount Kurama, and who possesses supernatural powers, a deceptive sense of humor and extraordinary martial skills. Because of that he has been the main character in numerous stories and legends. As Lucy Moss mentions, one of the most famous ancient legends tells how the King of Tengu, the old Sojobo coached the XII century hero Yoshitsune Minamoto in the art of fencing, martial arts and military strategy.


The Kurama baths are located just a few minutes from the station, and we approach at the place through a winding path of stone, which blends with the natural character of the site.


The baths for men and women are differentiated by a small curtain, called noren. Usually, subtle details like these are sufficient to determine the public or private character of the spaces.


Once inside and after taking off the shoes and then the rest of the clothes, the bather must first washed himself or herself with soap in the showers specially prepared for that purpose. It is against the custom to enter the onsen without having previously take a shower.


Once these preparations are completed, it is possible to enjoy a spectacular open-air bath (otemburo), gliding noiselessly over the hot water. It is not advisable to attempt a double mortal jump, as the possibility of a fracture may involve a serious problem of social discrimination: blood in the water would imply an unacceptable impurity.
Moreover, the idea is part of a bucolic experience, in awe before the gray landscape, lulled by the gentle murmur of water, semi-levitating between vapor and fog, while snow flakes play over our heads ... a healthy and wonderfully relaxing experience ...


To see a video of our visit, click here





SEE ALSO:

- JAPANESE TRADITIONAL ARCHITECTURE
My name is Neo ..